The journey to Noirmoutier took us over the Loire Bridge at St. Nazaire. This is quite an impressive structure, the Loire Estuary is wider than the Mersey at Liverpool. The suspension bridge arcs round in a curve which makes quite an impressive site.
After Bourgneuf the countryside becomes very flat indeed as we passed over the marais, or marsh. There were many ditches and watercourses, but also farming and settlements.
There is a causeway to the Island of Noirmoutier, but it is only available in one direction, and at low tide, and our journey times meant that we had do do both journeys by the bridge.
At the town of Noirmoutier we saw the castle the shops and the market. I was dissappointed to be there on a Tuesday the only day the castle museum was not open, but I guess it was more important to be there on a day the market was open. There were several wooden sculptures in the dry shallow moat.
We were looking round some gift shops and a bead shop when there was a sharp shower, so we made for a nearby cafe and enjoyed a cup of coffee and chatted to some other folk on the tour. After that it brightened up and we walked past the harbour to the market.
Ann had taken a picture of some hollyhocks growing against a wall, and this inspired our choice of picture to buy from a local artist who had a stall at the market. The market traders were very friendly, and it took me a while to realise that they were not wishing as a good journey, but that that is the way people say good day (jour). We nearly bought a Breton jumper (each) and I nearly bought Ann a scarf.
The fruit and vegetable stalls were very bright and impressive, and we bought some cherries, which were very good. There was also quite a wide choice of shops. The artist said that the beach he had painted was a bus journey away. I got the impression that it was a good place to come and stay for a while.
It had brightened up considerably since the early shower, so we bought some lunch at a pattiserie and sat on a bench looking out at the harbour to eat it in the sunshine.
There were some nice views of the sands going over the bridge on the journey back to the mainland, and then came the journey back stopping at the little harbour town of Pornic
Tuesday, 15 June 2010
Saturday, 12 June 2010
Quiberon
Quiberon is near the end of a peninsula, with one coast line facing the Atlantic, and one more sheltered facing East. We passed some spectacular cliffs rocks and bays on the Atlantic side on the way there. The town of Quiberon faces the Atlantic, but there is a sandy beach sheltered by the harbour.
We wandered around looking at some shops, we bought some ointment for Ann's back, and we ate pancakes in a bar near the beach on the main square.
We wandered around looking at some shops, we bought some ointment for Ann's back, and we ate pancakes in a bar near the beach on the main square.
Friday, 11 June 2010
Carnac
When they told me we were going to see the prehistoric standing stones at Carnac, I had something like Stone Henge in mind.
The stones were much smaller mainly three or four feet in height, but they made up for that in sheer quantity, there are masses of them stretching out along the hillside. They are very extensive, and some of the stones are much larger, but not where we stopped. There is a visitor centre, with a book and gift shop, and you could cross the road to see them close up, or climb the steps to the flat roof to get a panorama.
While we were there a little train arrived, which seemed a good way to visit them. You can read more about the stones here. We only stayed a short while before going on to Quiberon
The stones were much smaller mainly three or four feet in height, but they made up for that in sheer quantity, there are masses of them stretching out along the hillside. They are very extensive, and some of the stones are much larger, but not where we stopped. There is a visitor centre, with a book and gift shop, and you could cross the road to see them close up, or climb the steps to the flat roof to get a panorama.
While we were there a little train arrived, which seemed a good way to visit them. You can read more about the stones here. We only stayed a short while before going on to Quiberon
Wednesday, 9 June 2010
Vannes
The coach dropped us between the harbour and the archway leading into the town, and in the light drizzle we chose the town. There were many pretty timber framed houses, as we made our way up hill to St. Peter's cathedral at the top of the hill.
The cathedral had many fine paintings. There were chapels the full length of each wall, some with ornate altars, and most with one or two paintings of bible scenes, and stained glass windows. There was no guide or explanation as to what they represented or who they were by. There was an ambulatory and further chapels behind the main altar.
Opposite the cathedral west entrance was a city museum, but sadly it was closed. In fact many shops were closed, which is fairly normal on Mondays. There were shops selling gifts and biscuits, and a nice patisserie, so that was good.
Next to the harbour there was some exhibition space, and beyond that was the tourist information office. We looked at leaflets about dinghy and yaught hire, and boat trips. That's when we discovered that the region around Vannes is called Morbihan, and that the gulf of Morbihan is quite remarkable as a sizeable sea almost cut off with a relatively small straits leading to the Atlantic. It seems an ideal place for sailing.
After we left Vannes we went onto Quiberon
The cathedral had many fine paintings. There were chapels the full length of each wall, some with ornate altars, and most with one or two paintings of bible scenes, and stained glass windows. There was no guide or explanation as to what they represented or who they were by. There was an ambulatory and further chapels behind the main altar.
Opposite the cathedral west entrance was a city museum, but sadly it was closed. In fact many shops were closed, which is fairly normal on Mondays. There were shops selling gifts and biscuits, and a nice patisserie, so that was good.
Next to the harbour there was some exhibition space, and beyond that was the tourist information office. We looked at leaflets about dinghy and yaught hire, and boat trips. That's when we discovered that the region around Vannes is called Morbihan, and that the gulf of Morbihan is quite remarkable as a sizeable sea almost cut off with a relatively small straits leading to the Atlantic. It seems an ideal place for sailing.
After we left Vannes we went onto Quiberon
Sunday, 6 June 2010
Angers
The French word for detour is deviation, which sounds worse than ours. We had deviations both in and out of Angers, but it was definitely worth the visit.
We had the impression of few houses but many flats and apartment blocks on our journey in. We passed through a shopping street called Roi Rene, who was a King in Anjou during the 15th century. We travelled along one street with narrow pavements that I remarked must feel a little claustrophobic to live on, which entered onto a big square with a very well used children's play area. Eventually we arrived at the medieval castle at the centre of the city.
The castle is very impressive, but we did not have time to visit it and see the Apocalypse tapestry it houses. I walked up past the entrance, and looked down on the wide sweep of the river Maine, which is what gives the castle is commanding defensive position.
What made the visit most enjoyable, was the castle moat, which was clearly deep in its time. It is dry now, and the bottom has been planted with gardens, with ornate patterns of low hedges, giving a great perspective from the walk way above.
We found the tourist information office, I nearly bought a book about Roi Rene, (until I remembered it was in French, and I would struggle to appreciate it) and we used their toilets. We did not find anywhere to buy an ice cream, but we did get the brightest weather we would see for the next couple of days.
We had the impression of few houses but many flats and apartment blocks on our journey in. We passed through a shopping street called Roi Rene, who was a King in Anjou during the 15th century. We travelled along one street with narrow pavements that I remarked must feel a little claustrophobic to live on, which entered onto a big square with a very well used children's play area. Eventually we arrived at the medieval castle at the centre of the city.
The castle is very impressive, but we did not have time to visit it and see the Apocalypse tapestry it houses. I walked up past the entrance, and looked down on the wide sweep of the river Maine, which is what gives the castle is commanding defensive position.
What made the visit most enjoyable, was the castle moat, which was clearly deep in its time. It is dry now, and the bottom has been planted with gardens, with ornate patterns of low hedges, giving a great perspective from the walk way above.
We found the tourist information office, I nearly bought a book about Roi Rene, (until I remembered it was in French, and I would struggle to appreciate it) and we used their toilets. We did not find anywhere to buy an ice cream, but we did get the brightest weather we would see for the next couple of days.
Outward Journey
We have had holidays in the Pas de Calais, and our impression is of largely flat, slightly rolling countryside. Travelling West from Paris, we had the same impression, but just lots more of it.
The countryside is quite different to Britain, although it was difficult at first to tell why. Certainly there were occasional rows of Poplar trees, that seemed distinctively French, but the main difference I think was the absence of hedges between fields, and along the side of roads especially. It was curious seeing traffic travelling along roads from some difference away. Another feature we see only rarely in Britain are the water towers that are dotted around the countryside.
Once we had passed Angers where we stopped for a break, it became slightly more hilly and there was more woodland, and more hedges. Bretagne does indeed have some similarity with Grand Bretagne. Also once in Angou, there was much Broom, or Planta Genesta on the wayside, which gave its name to our Plantagenet Royal family.
When I first spotted some cows in the distance, I thought they were sheep. I am used to seeing only black and white Friesian cows, or brown Jersey ones. These were an off white pinkish colour. We saw a few horses, but no sheep.
The countryside is quite different to Britain, although it was difficult at first to tell why. Certainly there were occasional rows of Poplar trees, that seemed distinctively French, but the main difference I think was the absence of hedges between fields, and along the side of roads especially. It was curious seeing traffic travelling along roads from some difference away. Another feature we see only rarely in Britain are the water towers that are dotted around the countryside.
Once we had passed Angers where we stopped for a break, it became slightly more hilly and there was more woodland, and more hedges. Bretagne does indeed have some similarity with Grand Bretagne. Also once in Angou, there was much Broom, or Planta Genesta on the wayside, which gave its name to our Plantagenet Royal family.
When I first spotted some cows in the distance, I thought they were sheep. I am used to seeing only black and white Friesian cows, or brown Jersey ones. These were an off white pinkish colour. We saw a few horses, but no sheep.
Paris
Before we were dropped off, we got a taste of the guided tour, which did seem quite good. We teamed up with David, one of the guys on the tour and crossed over the Alma Bridge, past the flame of liberty sculpture, and enjoyed an expensive but welcome cup of coffee at the Grand Corona cafe. We sat out at tables on the pavement, but when we did go inside, Ann enjoyed the light fittings. We walked along the Avenue President Wilson, past the Museum of Modern Art and the Tokyo palace, which gave some interesting views onto the Eiffel tower. We then turned toward the river, down Rue de Manutention, and enjoyed the gardens, some vegetable, designed by staff at the museum.
After crossing the river again we visited the shop and gardens of the new Branley Museum. This explores France's connection with Africa India and other places, which made for an interesting shop, with a wide variety of books music and gifts. The gardens themselves were quite inspiring and restful.
Next to the museum are some buildings with plants growing in a vertical garden up the walls which was quite spectacular to view.
After crossing the river again we visited the shop and gardens of the new Branley Museum. This explores France's connection with Africa India and other places, which made for an interesting shop, with a wide variety of books music and gifts. The gardens themselves were quite inspiring and restful.
Next to the museum are some buildings with plants growing in a vertical garden up the walls which was quite spectacular to view.
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